In anticipation of our upcoming IG live series on exotic leathers, we wanted to reshare a conversation Peter Nitz had with Christy Plott, fourth-generation alligator and crocodile specialist from American Tanning & Leather Company, the largest and oldest exotic leather tannery in the United States, founded in 1923. The company specialises in ethically sourced exotic leathers, primarily alligator and crocodile, and their mission is transparency and responsible use.
Together, they explore the world of exotic skins, sustainability, and the heritage of luxury craftsmanship.
Q: How does the history of exotic leather in the U.S. shape today’s practices?
Christy Plott: In the 1950s and 60s, alligators were over hunted. Louisiana closed its alligator season in 1963, long before the Endangered Species Act of 1973 or CITES in 1975. By 1979, the American alligator had fully recovered, which is a direct result of regulated commercial use combined with conservation science. Today, populations are stable and healthy, with almost 5 million alligators in the wild.
Q: How does alligator farming contribute to conservation?
Christy Plott: Farms operate under strict three-way contracts with landowners and the state. Farmers collect eggs, hatch them on secure farms, release 10% back into the wild, and use the rest for leather and meat. This approach increases populations, preserves wetlands, and provides jobs. Landowners are incentivised to maintain and restore coastal wetlands, which sequester four times more carbon than terrestrial forests, contributing to climate change mitigation. Over the past five years, roughly $60 million has gone to landowners through this system.
Q: How are alligators fully utilized? Do suppliers use natural deceased aniimals.
Christy Plott: Every part of the animal is used responsibly. This ensures that luxury products directly support environmental, social, and scientific benefits.
- Leather: The primary material for bespoke handbags.
- Meat: A high-protein, low-fat delicacy sold domestically and internationally.
- Blood: Used for cutting-edge medical research on antibodies, cancer, and antibiotic resistance.
Skins from naturally deceased animals cannot receive a CITES permit and decay too quickly to be usable. For this reason, naturally deceased animals are not used, and legal sourcing is always regulated and tracked.
Q: Why is alligator preferred over other crocodile species today?
Christy Plott: Last year (2019), about 400,000 farm-raised alligators entered the international market, compared to around 25,000 wild-caught.
- Legal everywhere globally: there is no risk of bans.
- Better tail yield: 40% of the skin’s value comes from the tail, making alligator more versatile.
- Increased farming expertise: today’s alligators grow to luxury specifications with minimal marks.
Q: Tell us about the California legislation update?
Christy Plott: The California ban on alligator trade is temporarily banned. A federal judge recognized the conservation, economic, and legal importance of the industry. The case emphasizes federal supremacy in wildlife trade regulation, protecting sustainable use practices and jobs worldwide.
Q: What about humane treatment and slaughter?
Christy Plott: Alligators are euthanized safely and efficiently. All methods prioritize animal welfare, worker safety, and meat usability, following OIE standards. Tanneries never kill animals; they receive skins from certified, ethical sources.
- Farms: Stunned in water via electric shock, followed by spinal cord severance.
- Wild: Quick, precise firearm to the brain.
Q: How do you protect exotic leather?
Christy Plott: Avoid water on glazed finishes; optional treatments include Scotchgard or clear coatings. For legal compliance, ensure CES permits accompany all skins, even within the same country.
Q: What makes some colors or skins more difficult to work with?
Christy Plott: Light pastel and nude tones are hardest to produce because they require a specialized chrome tanning process for light-fastness and flexibility. Thickness and species also matter. Metallic skins are thick (1.5–1.6 mm), while most skins for handbags are 0.9–1 mm. Luxury artisans need transparent, high-quality leather for depth and visual appeal, not pigment-heavy finishes. I personally prefer glazed finishes, because it is exquisite and delicate. Of course the choice depends on style and application.
Peter Nitz: Too much pigment makes leather feel artificial, almost plasticky. Transparent leathers are more beautiful, and while less durable against scratches, they carry craftsmanship value and aesthetic superiority, much like comparing a fine wine to an ordinary one. I personally prefer Matte finishes compared to glazed finishes, because it is easier to work with, and more practical for everyday wear.
Q: What is the future of the alligator industry?
Christy Plott: “Education is key. We must teach ourselves, consumers, retailers, and editors about sustainable, ethical use. Transparency and recognition of past shortcomings build trust. Public endorsement by brands like LVMH helps reinforce responsible exotic leather use globally. Removing this industry would harm conservation efforts, habitats, and local communities.”
Peter Nitz: “Small businesses can operate legally and responsibly. If we can do it, anyone can. It’s about knowledge, permits, and care.”